Hotels in Gjirokastër. Hotels in Albania

Gjirokastra Castle

Gjirokastra's eerie hilltop castle is one of the biggest in the Balkans. There's been a fortress here since the 12th century, although much of what can be seen today dates to the early 19th century. The castle remains somewhat infamous due to its use as a prison under the communists. Inside there's a collection of armoury, two good museums, plenty of crumbling ruins to scramble around and superb views over the valley.

Cold War Tunnel

Gjirokastra's most interesting sight in no way relates to its traditional architecture, but instead to its far more modern kind: this is a giant bunker built deep under the castle for use by the local authorities during the full-scale invasion Hoxha was so paranoid about. Built in secret during the 1960s, it has 80 rooms and its existence remained unknown to locals until the 1990s. Personal guided tours run from the tourist information booth on the main square all day.

Zekate House

This incredible three-storey house dates from 1811 and has twin towers and a double-arched facade. It's fascinating to nose around the almost totally unchanged interiors of an Ottoman-era home, especially the upstairs galleries, which have carved wooden ceilings, stained-glass windows and detailed wall frescoes.

Odaja Restaurant

Cooking up a storm since 1937, Odaja is a small and cute 1st-floor restaurant serving good, honest home-cooked Albanian mountain dishes. Tuck into the oh-so-succulent meatballs with cheese, devour some stuffed peppers and relish the superb moussaka and you'll quickly come to understand just how good Albanian food can be.

Gjoça Restaurant

Authentic Albanian home cooking is served at this tiny place on the main street of the Old Town. Everything is cooked at the counter on a small gas stove by an elderly lady who puts a lifetime of cooking know-how into every dish. There are only three interior tables plus one or two outside, so get there early to ensure a seat.

Gjirokastra Museum

This interesting museum is a beautifully lit and presented, fully English-signed display on the long and fascinating history of the town. Some highlights include a 6th-century grave containing the skeletons of two small children, as well as information on such luminaries connected with Gjirokastra as Ali Pasha, Lord Byron, Edward Lear and Enver Hoxha.

Army Museum

As well as photos of the partisan resistance against the Italians and a vast number of rifles and machine guns, it's possible to visit the cells where political prisoners were kept between 1929 and 1968. It's a humbling experience. Look for the seven windows that face the town here: 'You'll be sent to the seven windows' was a common threat in the town throughout the communist era.